Travel to Israel All Year Long

My favourite blog is by Dina who lives just outside Jerusalem and posts the most interesting sights and details from her mini-meanderings around Israel. Take time to check her blog at Jerusalem Hills Daily Photo and enjoy a Holy Land vacation all year long!

Our Final Day: Amman and Jerash

Ed Climbs the Citadel's Heights

Today's tour took us to the Citadel of the city of Amaan, the site of ancient Philadelphia of the Decapolis. In the Old Testament, the site was known as Rabboth Amon, capital of the Amonites. Here we viewed the great Temple of Hercules from the Roman period. Its huge columns still dominate the skyline of the new city. Below the hill sits the old Roman theare which once seated over 7,000.

Hadrian's Arch, Jerash

We took some time to tour the national archaeological museum, soon to be replaced by a massive new building. The small homey displays coverd every time frame from the Stone Age through the Turkish occupation. We enjoyed the plastered Neolithic skulls, the finely shaped Iron Age Figurines, Roman lamps and vessels, and even gold coins of the various early Islamic periods.

A few steps across the Citadel and we entered the Palace of the ancient Islamic rulers with its finely wrought pilisters and carved capitals. A nearby cistern held over 17 acre feet of water for the residents of the ancient settlement.

Our bus ride north was sidetracked by a terribly truck accident which closed the main road, forcing us off onto a smaller local road that wound through the hills. We soon arrived at Jerash, a gem of a Roman city. Here the colonnaded streets graced paved roads leading to and from the distant cities of Pella, Damascus, Philadelphia, and beyond. A huge theatre with bodacious acoustics allowed us to voice our words to the "crowd" seated high above us with perfect clarity. Here, too, a bagpiper and drummer in the traditional dress of the British Army which once assisted the Hashemites serenaded us (if you can call what bagpipes do, serenading!).

We walked up to the temple of Aphrodite with its towering capitals and past a large Byzantine church. Down at the Nymphaeum we could picture the nymphs who once graced the remains of this monumental facade. We strolled back along the Cardo Maximus (Main Street) to the small souvenir shops, picked up a few final purchases to rid our pockets of stray dinars, and headed back to Amman and our hotel.

Dinner is now over, the final packing is coming to a close. We will board the bus to the airport at 11pm, and we will all (without this blogger) be flying off to Frankfurt then home to Dallas.

It has been a trip of up and down hill, high temperatures, and cold Red Sea water. We have climbed the heights of Mount Pisgah, been baptized in the Jordan River, sung hymns in Bethlehem, found treasures and pottery sherds in an ancient Israelite fortress, and ridden camels, horses, buses, and boats. From the Sea of Galilee to the Red Sea and Transjordan we have experienced more than we ever imagined.

With new friends and new memories and new gifts for loved ones back home, we are about to end our journey. The telling of tales, however, has just begun.


Shout out from Carolyn Ward: I am saving a place for you. Moma/Carolyn/Granny

Mount Nebo, Madaba, and Amman

Wifi is spotty in our Amman hotel so this will be a short and picture-free post. We left Petra behind this morning, taking the Desert Highway out of the Wadi Musa and northward through the hills of Edom toward ancient Moab. A long drive, we stopped for shopping and personal import-export at a small place before boarding the bus again. We turned west toward the Crusader era city of Kerek, passing the ancient castle (unseen) and continuing on to Mount Nebo. From Nebo's heights Moses looked across to the Promised Land. Our vista was slightly hazy, but we could see the Judean hills in the distance, the Dead Sea, And the Cities of the Plains, including ancient Sodom (or so says this blogger). See the video to back up his assertion about Sodom. Back on the bus, a quick ride took us to Madaba" Here we viewed the oldest mosaic map in the world, a Byzantine era floor of a church that guided ancient pilgrims on their journeys across the Holy Land. A wow of a map in vivid detail with Ancient Jerusalem as the feature. The huge Ded Sea and the surrounding sites were all marked for the ancient and the modern tourist as well-- that is, if yu could read Greek! We voted on a lighter lunch and hit a home run with boxed shear as and fries and veggies for a bargain price. We ate as we journey to a Mosaic factory to watch the artists at work in the miniature pieces of stone. A short hour down the road we arrived in Amaan. Our hotel is under renovation and has the oddest room numbering system. Floor two is actually on the fourth floor. Floor three on floors one and two, and I haven't the foggiest notion where floor one goes.... Tomorrow: Amaan city tour (ancient Phialdelphia of the Decapolis) and the vast Roman city of Jerash. Then, a rest at the hotel and a 1045 pm departure to the airport for our flight at 2am for Frankfurt, DFW, and all points homeward. Our blog will be caught up as David is staying in Jordan to work on an archaeological project.

Petra, Nabatean Wonder

The Treasury from the Siq, Petra

Today was spent in the Nabatean caravan city of Petra, known as a Modern Wonder of the World. We hiked down the entry to the Siq, the long passage with towering sandstone cliffs above us. We viewed the Roman and nabatean carvings that once graced this entryway into the city beyond. Here carvings of camels, gods, goddesses, and sacred deities once met visitors. Inside, tomb after elaborate tomb carved from the living stone towered around us. We emerged from the siq at the treasury, the most well known of the tombs. Fifty meters in height, its graceful columns, cupids, Amazons, and demi-gods still welcome modern visitors as it has for 2,000 years.

The remains of a Roman theatre stood below the hills around where the rubble piles of former homes still lay in sight. A huge temple complex still remains, her walls a tribute to the engineering skills of builders two millenia ago.



Some brave souls hiked an additional two hours over the hill to the Monastery, a vast facade of a tomb seen recently in the movie "Transformers II' and whose interior was in "Indiana Jones 3". Some took a camel ride. Others climbed to the Royal Tombs to view the landscape below and the patterned sandstone interiors.

We had a  wonderful--but awesomely hot!--day we shall never forget.

Stone Interior, Royal Tomb

Three Wise Men pass through Petra

Tomorrow: Mount Nebo of Moses and the Madaba Map.....Destination: Amman.

If this is Monday, it must be Jordan

We left our Israeli Adventure behind and crossed the border into Jordan. Though hot and trying for those pulling two suitcases and more, we had no troubles crossing between the international boundary at Aqaba. Here our new guide, Hisham, met us with our new driver. We quickly loaded all the luggage onto the bus and set out for the Wadi Rum.

Wadi Rum is the name of a large national park area of Jordan that is a desert as vast as it is beautiful. We viewed a short film on the region, then split  into groups of 5-6 and climbed into the back of 4x4 pickups with slightly padded seats but a blessed awning. We slid and slew our way through the desert sands, hitting a few bumps on the way, having a few laughs, sweating a lot, but awed by the grandeur of the hills rising around us. Here Lawrence of Arabia (T.E.Lawrence) joined forced with the Bedouin trips united under Faisel bin Hussein of Mecca against the Ottoman Turks. With British backing the forces raided trains and depots and garrisons in the region and ultimately created a larger scale Arab Revolt that helped end World War One.

Ancient Glyphs at Wadi Rum

The Caravan Departs

We enjoyed a short respite and our first Jordanian tea in a Bedouin-style camp. Eight brave souls boarded camels for part of the journey and can say they have caravaned in the desert! From ancient gylphs carved into the sandstone to the rising cliffs that towered around us, we were amazed. We enjoyed a Jordanian buffet lunch and some cooler air in the visitors' center before boarding the bus and working our way north to the Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) and the city of Petra. After a bit of a delay, everyone is now in their rooms or enjoying the pool, some the Turkish baths and massage, and others walking the city.

Tomorrow, the World Heritage site of Petra,  a Caravan City of the Nabateans. Stay tuned!

A Few Extra

The group explores the dry wadi of the Elah Valle, looking for Philistines 

The Holy of Holies, Arad

Canaanite temple holy items from Hazor, destroyed by Israel under Joshua

South, Toward the Other Side of the Land

We said  "goodbye" to Jerusalem today, headed down Highway 1, turned south toward Beth Shemesh, and worked our way south through the Negev. We stopped in the valley of Elah to consider the story of David and Goliath and the Battle with the Philistines under Saul. Here in the dry wadi bed we looked at the hills and considered the text as the remains of Tel Azekah looked down from close at hand.

Temple in the Judaean fortress of Arad

Back on the bus we mosed into the Negev, passing numerous small squatters' villages of Israeli Bedouin now forced into small hamlets. Camels dotted the landscape where once the biblical Patriarchs herded their flocks. We visited the site of the ancient Canaanite city of Arad and walked through the later fortress of Judah. The site included a sanctuary to Yahweh complete with an altar of unhewn stones, a room that served as a Holy Place, and an inner Holy of Holies featuring two incense altars and masseboth (standing stones) that probably represented the deity. Our sharp-eyed travelers managed to walk around and find ancient sling stone (like in the David and Goliath story!), an Early Bronze flint scraper for leather curing, and a flint sickle blade for harvesting wheat or barley--as well as innumerable pottery sherds.

We returned through Beersheva and said goodbye to our guide, Yael, whom we enjoyed immensely and will miss as much. Her insights and teaching will be a gift we carry forever.

We took the 164 mile drive down the Araba Valley south of the Dead Sea, stopped for a brief lunch, and arrived at our hotel in the heart of Eilat. The temperature was a cool 107 F. The Red Sea is visible ust blocks from the hotel. We ate a nice supper and many walked the boardwalk and shopped, ate ice cream, got a little spa treatment and enjoyed this tourist destination as shabbat (sabbath) ended at 8:30 pm and all the shops immediately. opened!

Tomorrow is a day of rest and relaxation before crossing into Jordan on Monday morning. Some will catch up on sleep, and others explore the nearby coral reefs through a mask and snorkel. We will enjoy a little relaxation after walking off more than one set of feet over the last 8 days. More then!

Shabbat of a Lifetime

Last evening, June 15 
When the brochure suggested "Shabbat of a Lifetime" little did we know that the event would live up to the hype! It was a wonderful evening.

Our guide and host, Nathaniel (Nati) met us at the Joffa Gate and walked us through the narrow lanes of the Old City of Jerusalem to the site of the Small Kotel (Western Wall). Here we caught a glimpse of the meaning of Jerusalem as a city of  Peace as Nati unfolded tales from Judaism's rabbinic past to enlighten. We crossed a few more streets and alleys and through Security to the Western Wall where the Sabbath was about to begin. Religious Jews of multiple varieties arrived in droves to gather to welcome in Queen Sabbath as the sun set. We learned of the Chasidim, Modern Orthodox, Latvian, Sephardi, Ashkenazim, and a vast assortment of different forms of Judaism distinguishable by their dress and practices. We watched the Yeshiva Students dance and sing and saw Abba Abba, the multimillionaire philanthropist of the young recruits of the Israel Defense Forces who feeds 150 each Shabbat in his home. 

We boarded the bus (our host walked as not to violate the Sabbath) and we headed for his home where we were met by Michelle, Nati's wife. With her little children in tow, we entered their home and sat at tables set for all 37 of us, their family, and several friends. We moved through the prayers and multiple courses of food and drink of the Orthodox  Sabbath observance, singing along at some points, hearing the lovely voice of our host intone other prayers, including a moving recital of Proverbs 31 in Hebrew to his 8-month expectant wife and mother of 2 who prepared not only our food, but also that for another 120 guests in other homes!

We shared food, drink, song, prayer, and all the elements of an observant modern Orthodox Jewish family's Sabbath. We laughed and heard tales, and shared our own trip highlights. Our American cum Israeli hosts made it a night we will never forget-- neither the knowledge, insight, food, or happiness. It was a Shabbat Shalom.

Shout Outs from the Springers and Blacks

Springers: 
Allen and Sherry Springer want to say "Hello", we love you, and we miss you to their children and grandchildren in Texas and Oklahoma!

Blacks:
To the Blacks and Flemings:
Great tour, great companions, good food, HOT weather, lots of walking, brain is on overload.....having a great time. Dad has only misplaced a room key, his camera, and his wallet---so far. All have been found.

Excited to share our experiences.
Mom/Nana/Sandi (msn)

Israel Museum

Model of Temple and 1st Cent. Jerusalem

This morning found us on a half day tour of the Israel Museum. Wow! We enjoyed the huge model of ancient Jerusalem in the first century and a film on the discovery of the Dead Sea Scrolls and life among the members of the ancient Qumran community, a sect of Judaism known as the Essenes. We then viewed a number of the Dead Sea Scrolls and the material excavated with them. We saw copies of not only biblical manuscripts, but also the sectarian literature and the extra-biblical (apocryphal) books in use among the Community back at that time.

Inscription Mentioning Pontius Pilate

We then toured the finds housed  in the Museum from Israel's pre-historic periods up through modern time. We enjoyed the biblical finds the most. What a vast and fantastic collection.

We have a long evening at the Shabbat (Sabbath) of a Lifetime tonight. We'll try and post about that experience tomorrow. We leave Jerusalem in the morning and visit ancient Beersheva and Arad on our way south to Eilat on the Red Sea. We will drop off our guide Yael in Beersheva so she can return home to her children. We will certainly miss her! We have a day free to explore the Red Sea area. Some will likely shop, others snooze, and some swin or snorkel along the coral reefs.

More from Eilat!

Shout Out from Melvin and Connie

Hi family and Friends! We are fine and enjoying ourselves and new  friends.We're here one week now--seen so much and done so much it feels (tired) more like two weeks.
Bethlehem was phenomenal. Jerusalem amazing. Please email us your addresses so we can mail postcards!
We love you.

God's blessings,

Melivin and  Connie

Shout Out from Trisha Ditmore

To Mother - It's wonderful here, but will keep my promise to come back to give you a pedicure! To Gene - Thanks for all your sweet e-mails. Hope your're ready for your Colorado trip. To all kids, grand kids, and friends, here's a BIG HUG! Trisha Ditmore

Away to the Manger and back to the Tomb

"But you, Bethlehem Ephrathah, though you are small among the clans of Judah, out of you will come for me one who will be ruler over Israel, whose origins are from of old, from ancient times."

Our day began by loading up and crossing through the security wall into the West bank city of Bethlehem. Since 1967 the city has been under Israeli control. The security wall, built several years ago, prevents the influx of terrorists from the Territories (West Bank) into Israel proper. It is an unsightly blight on the landscape, but it has worked in both preventing terrorism and creating hostilities in those whose villages are cut in half, further isolated from work and schools, or denied some access to services. It is a solution to one problem and the well-spring of others. that said, we were able to cross over with minimal delay this year and pick up our Arab Christian guide.

Cave, Shepherds' Field, Bethlehem

Melvin enters the Humble Door, Bethlehem

We visited the Shepherds' Field, site of the remains of a Byzantine-era Church that commemorated the characters of Luke's Gospel story of Jesus' birth. We crossed through town to the center of the new city surround the Church of the Nativity. The current sanctuary is the oldest standing church in the Holy Land. The original Constatine-era (4th cent) church remains only in lovely mosaic floors now located beneath the floors of the Justinian church of the 5th century. When Persian Moslems invaded the land, upon seeing the wall mosaics of the biblical Magi dressed as Persians, they did not destroy the building. As the Armenian congregation was saying  mass in the Grotto of the Nativity, we had to wait an hour as long lines of tourists grew behind us. We finally entered to see the traditional place of Christ's birth, the spot where Roman  Catholics contend the manger stood, and the Greek Orthodox icons on the walls and lamps hanging from the ceiling of the small cave cum holy spot.

We spent a little time indulging the pilgrim shopping instincts, enjoyed a nice lunch, and then crossed the border back into Israel proper. Our bus dropped us in the Old City and we climbed to the Lion's Gate, entered the  walls, and visited the site of the ancient Pools of Bethesda and Saint Anne's Church. Here Jesus is said to have healed a lame man at the pool. St Anne's is a lovelly Crusader period church with acoustics so wonderful that most of the group sat and sang several hymns to hear themselves sound outlandishly fantastic.

Grotto of the Nativity

A visit to the Garden Tomb, a Protestant location that commemorates Jesus burial and resurrection included a Lord's Supper celebration. While not the actual spot of Jesus' burial, its garden setting gives one a feel for the setting of the biblical story.

Abu Eric with Bedouin Girls Shay and Sam

Afterwards, all travelers met up at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the long-held traditional site of the crucifixion, burial, and resurrection of the Christian Messiah. Here we visited the Golgatha hill with its Greek orthodox site of the crucifixion. Walking down we encountered the Stone of Unction where His corpse was wrapped in its shround. The towering wooden shrine of the Edicula covers the remains of the original simple stone tomb where the body of Jesus is held to have been buried. This traditions dates back to the 4th century as a church and was the belief of the Jerusalem believers from the beginning. At the foot of this church are the remains of a quarry area where the "True Cross" was said to have been found when construction began on the Church. The Chapel of St Helena stands in this spot to commemorate the event.

Cieling of Holy Sepulcher Church over Edicula Tomb Shrine

After a little free time to shop in the Old City bazaar, we loaded the bus to return to our hotel. Tomorrow we begin a blessed 1.5 hours later as our destination doesn't open until 10am! More then.......

A Long Day in Jerusalem

Today was a test of stamina for many. we bagan with an overview of the city from the Mount of Olives. See the exciting "first time on a camel" pictures.





 We then walked down the path Jesus took on Palm Sunday, stopping at the church of Dominus Flevit (Jesus Wept) and looking out over the city. Further along we found the Church of All Nations at the Garden of Gethsemene.










Our visit next took us to the excavations of the City of David, the site of the original Jebusite city conquered by the army of David under Joab  and established as the capital of United Israel (ca. 1000 BC). We visited the stepped remains of the ancient settlement and stopped at the partiaally excavated remains of the Siloam Pool, the site of one of Jesus' miracles. We then climbed back up the hill through the ancient drainage channel/tunnel/sewer of the Herodian city, a narrow, slick, low tunnel and tested our steel.


We enjoyed a great lunch at a restaurant in Mamila, a neighbourhood in Jewish Jerusalem. Our afternoon visit took us to to the site of the Upper Room, a crusader period structure built over the traditional site of Jesus' last Supper with his Disciples that Passover night. We also saw the nearby Tomb of King David.

We returned early to our hotel to freshen up. After dinner we hit the Old City again for a walk along the Herodian Street level beside the Western (wailing) Wall. We saw the foundations of the ancient Temple renovated by Herod, with stones as large as 600 tons! We took a moment to visit the Western Wall (some to stop and pray) before returning to our bus past some of the displays in the city's Festival of Light. Back at the hootel at 10:45 pm, we leave again at 8am. See you then!

Jordan Valley, Dead Sea, Scrolls, Scribes, Zealots, & Wow!

Today was a long day for our travelers with special treats and sometimes heat. We said goodbye to the Dona Gracia Hotel that had been our home for 4 nights in the Galilee, loaded the luggage on the bus and struck out toward the south. Not long after passing the southern end of the Lake we stopped for baptismal ceremonies in the Jordan River. Nine members of our group chose to renew their baptismal commitments and entered the waters at Yardinit. Glenn and David baptized. When our group finished, a group of French tourists asked if Glenn would continue and baptize them! So, another 12 souls later, our joyful crew found its way back to the bus.

We came to Beth Shean, a site that features remains from both the biblical period and the later Roman world. The large Roman city was destroyed by an earthquake in 749. the ruins lay in the shadow of Tel Beth Shean, a former Canaanite and Philistine stronghold where the bodies of King Saul and Jonathan were once hung upon the walls as war trophies. We heard Tammy and Sherman sing a beautiful song from the stage of the Roman theatre, its perfect acoustics bringing their voices up to our seats high above with ringing clarity.

Cave 4, Qumran

We wound our way down the Jordan Valley, the river to our left, Mount Nebo rising  above the northern edge of the Dead Sea. Just a few miles further on we came tto the archaeological park at Qumran. Here lie the remains of a settlement of the ancient Essenes, a sect of Judaism during the days of Jesus. From their community of radical ascetic believers came many of the scrolls found hidden away in caves during the first Jewish Revolt (AD 67-70). Beginning in 1947 these scrolls came to light and now comprise the earliest copies of biblical books we possess.

Traveling south we arrived at Masada, a focus of early Israeli patriotism honouring the deaths of the Zealots who held out several years against the Roman army and committed mass suicide rather than be captured as slave. Here the remains of one of King Herod's palaces still stands as a reminder of their acts. 

After our long day, we stopped for a swim in the Dead Sea. And  what an interesting time: floating in the super-salty water with your hands and feet OUT of the water! Some enjoyed covering themselves with the mineral-rich mud, said by many to be one of earth's greatest beauty treatments.

Showering off the oily residue and minerals, we loaded on the bus and climbed UP the road to Jerusalem. Entering the city from the ancient Wilderness along the Jericho Road, we are now in our lovely hotel, the Jerusalem Park Hotel (not originally on the itinerary). A wide array of choices awaited us at dinner. Now to rest before conquering the Holy City tomorrow.

Jesus' Miracles, the Sea, Saul's Demise, and a Swim

After breakfast we walked just a few blocks from our hotel down to the jetty of Tiberius. Here we boarded our large boat for a ride across the sea of Galilee. The boat was operated by a Jewish Christian, and besides the typical corny jokes all short tour operators make, our time together was soon transformed into a mini-concert with worship and praise songs in both Hebrew and English. 

Several of our folks were able to sing-along with Daniel Carmel, the captain. Many found it a meaningful and moving experience to sing and worship on the waters where Jesus and his disciples once fished and sailed.

Our boat too soon docked at Nof Ginosar, a kibbutz on the north shore of the lake. Here, little more than a decade ago, kibbutznik brothers discovered an old boat sticking above the mud on the shores of  the lake when the water was low. Archaeologists came in and directed a small excavation, extracting what would come to be known as The Jesus Boat. The boat is the remains of a first century fishing boat that possibly worked the lake during the time of Jesus’ ministry and miracles in the area. It was fascinating to see exactly what a boat of that period would have looked like and what size it was (just about big enough for about 13 to ride in!).

From Nof Ginosar our bus carried us just a short way along the shore line to Tabgha, a small Catholic church built over the remains of original fourth and fifth century churches that commemorated Jesus’ Feeding of the Five Thousand. While the exact location is uncertain, the little chapel was built in the are where it did actually occur. Beautiful old mosaic floors of the wildlife of the Nile River in Egypt decorated the old churches and are still a part of the modern church. The graceful water birds, peacocks, and partridges joined the papyrus, trees and other wildlife to transport the viewer to a calm and peaceful setting. Under the altar is the focus of the scene, two fishes and a basket of four loaves—the fifth loaf being the Eucharist Bread on the altar that would be a part of the service.

We next drove up the Jezreel Valley to a spot between ancient Jezreel and Mount Gilboa. In a small grove of trees surrounding a spring-fed pool (The Pool of Israel) we read the story of the fall of King Saul and the death of him and his sons in battle against the Philistines. It was at the pool that the armies of Israel gathered before the battle, and her Saul faced the fall of his dynasty and the ascent of that of King David. 

Lunch found us at a quick stop for Felalfels and salads and Shwarmas again. We enjoyed our “Israeli Burgers” and cold drinks. Some washed their down with an ice cream bar (or two!). 

We visited the Springs of Harod (En Harod) where Gideon, the Israelite Judge, separated his soldiers by seeing who slurpped straight from the water in the stream and who drank by dipping their cupped hands into the waters while keeping a sharp eye out for the enemy. We enjoyed hearing the tale read as we envisioned the troops gathered around the Midianite camp and shouting,  "For the Sword of the Lord and for Gideon!"

A short drive closer to Mount Gilboa took us to Sachne Springs, a holiday reserve owned by Kibbutz Nir David and a place to enjoy a wonderful and refreshing dip in two large pools that are collected from the nearby spring. Some merely swam, while others enjoyed standing under the waterfall and washing away their tiredness.

On the way back to Tiberius some were dropped at a diamond and gemstone factory to see what treasures of the Orient they might discover. Dinner is now over. Some are walking the promenade one last time before we leave the Galilee in the morning and move south toward the Dead Sea and our next hotel. Tomorrow night from Jerusalem!

** SHOUT OUTS **
1. George and Marie Burke want to say "HI" to Marie's parents in California, Harold and Florence Lappinga. We know you enjoyed this trip in 1986. We cant wait to share what we have learned with you. Hello to the rest of our family. We love you!

Anyone Can Now Reply

Comments are now repaired so anyone can reply to our postings. sorry for the problems, followers!

Over and Through the River in the Woods

Our second full day of touring began with gusto as our seasoned travelers downed the breakfast, some learning that Nescafe is the traditional Israeli coffee instead of the drip drip drip of Folgers mountain grown!

Synagogue at Capernaum

We set out north around the Lake of Kinneret (Sea of Galilee, called Kinneret in Hebrew as it is shaped like a “harp”) [The lake is 211 meters below sea level). Our time on the road was short as we arrived at the site of ancient Capernaum (Kfar Nahum = Village of Nahum) quickly, situated on the North end of the lake. Here the remains of  the little first century fishing village have been uncovered, the black basalt stone walls standing now in the sun. Rising over the ruins are the remains of the later synagogue (3^rd – 5^th cent) in white limestone, a stark contrast to the surrounding small square houses. The synagogue is built over the remains of the earlier first century building that  was the site of Jesus’ ministry at Capernaum. Just a few yards away is the small home that likely served as residence to the family of Simon Peter. Here his mother-in-law was healed by Jesus. The remains of the city are set against the sparkling blues of the sea to the south, and we enjoyed sitting in the shade to hear the story of Jesus’ center of ministry in the region.

Mount of Beatitudes

From Capernaum a short drive took us to a lovely early 20^th century Italian-inspired chapel at a site to commemorate the Beatitudes of Jesus. While the exact location of the original event is unknown, the site gives the visitor a nice understanding of the ministry to the multitudes gathered on the hillside slope to hear the revolutionary teachings of the Galilean.

Cooling of at Tel Dan

Although the lunch hour approach, we girded our belts  a little tighter, ate some trail mix or crackers, and set out for the Nature Reserve at Tel Dan at the northern edge of the Israeli border with Lebanon and Syria. Here we took a fairly long hike through the shaded woods, the rushing noise of the headwaters of the Dan River flowing southward alongside our trail. We trod over the rocks, through  the creeks and streams, into the hot forest, and had only one fall on the rocks, one fall in the water, and one bee sting. (No confessions as to who did what. What happens in Dan stays in Dan!).But I should mention we cooled our feet in a wading pool in the woods where at least 25 giggling and screaming small children from a local kibbutz were skinny dipping and enjoying the afternoon!

Our trek took us to the remains of the ancient high place of the Northern Kingdom of Israel, first established by Jeroboam as a competing  religious shrine to the Temple at Jerusalem. Here the Bema still stands where once a golden calf represented the God of Israel. A large altar for sacrifices, now gone, stood at the foot of the temple’s steps to receive the offerings of the faithful. Walking downhill we found the ancient city gate of the Israelite fortifications where multiple wooden gates once barred the enemies from entering. Too, we saw the “Place of Judgment” where the king or governor would sit upon the dais under a canopy to issue his decrees (“Dan” means “Judge.”). Passing through the plaza where new  arrivals to the city could sacrifice on a stone altar with three masseboth (standing stones representing the gods), we marched outside the walls and back to our bus.

Our lunch stop found us at a small felalfel and shwarma stand to sample near eastern “fast food,” While not fast enough for some, the choice of falafel (a pita filled with fried chick pea balls and an assortment of salads and garnished with tahini) or shwarma (small slices of grilled turkey with veggies and sauce in pita) gave many a first introduction to local quick cuisine.

Skinny Dippers' Cast Offs

Our late afternoon found us at the site of Caesarea Philippi, the site of the Apostle Peter’s confession of Jesus as the “Son of God.” Here the Roman remains of temples dedicated to the god Pan, the goddess Nemesis, and the deified Augustus Caesar stood before a cavern from which flowed the headwaters of the river now known by its Arabic name, Banias (Pan-ias). The Banias River, the Dan River, and the Hashbani (which we did not see) join together to make up the Jordan River that flows southward into the Sea of Galilee where we ended up, again, for a lovely dinner.

Tomorrow we sail on the Sea. Stay tuned.

SHOUT OUTS –

1. To all family friend and especially Milena (who requested this!): Today Grammaa and Melvin went to Peter’s home in Capernaum—this is where Jesus stayed on the Sea of Galilee.Yesterday we were in Nazareth where Jesus grew up as a child with his parents.  –Connie and Melvin
2. Hello to all our family and wish you were here. Having a blessed time, --Trisha Ditmore (who is wearing her hat!) and Donna Headstream
3. Philip Fowler, your Dad has arrived and is having a good time! – Jim
4. I went oto my favourite place in Israel today, Tel Dan! –Moma / Granny /Caroline

Day Two - Nazareth and Mt. Carmel

After a typical Israeli breakfast featuring the likes of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, yogurt, sour cream, cereals, breads and several varieties of pastries, it was on the bus at 8 am on off on our first day of touring. We had swapped 2 days of the scheduled itinerary and began today just outside of Nazareth on the hill of the Precipice. The site commemorates the story of Jesus’ sermon in his hometown and his rejection: “a prophet is not without honour except in his own hometown.” The hill gives a great view of Jezreel Valley and its fertile fields surround the hillside towns and villages.

We came down the hill and drove up in to the modern city of Nazareth to make three  stops. We first visited the Roman Catholic Church of the Annunciation with this lovely 20^th century church built over and incorporating the ruins of the earlier Byzantine chapel first constructed in  AD 426. The church is a celebration of the life of Mary and her call by God to give birth to the Messiah.

Well, Greek Orthodox Gabriel's Church

We took a walk through the general market of the city, passing shops selling clothes and spices and all manner of home do-dads for the residents of the city. We arrived at the Greek Orthodox Church, built over the ancient water source of the city. This church claims to be the site of the Angel Gabriel’s announcement to Mary as she came to draw water in the heat of the day. We could peer over into the well and see and hear the waters running below.

Ginny Lipe Inspects Olive Tree

Next stop the recreation of the ancient city at the Nazareth Village, a project of the YMCA (yes, we also had a hot meal there and hung out with all the goys). The village recreates the city during the first century. It gave us a glimpse of life 2,000 years ago featuring a farmer threshing wheat, a shepherd and his fat-tailed sheep, a recreated wealthy family tomb (complete with rolling stone), a weaver spinning wool and weaving tapestry, a carpenter, an ancient and working  oil press, and a synagogue. Great fun to see life recreated before our eyes.

Here, too, we ate lunch, a fantastic array of salads, and the traditional schnitzel and fries, the unofficial national dish of Israel.

Mike, Come Forth!

After lunch we drove across to the foot of Mount Carmel and entered the convent commemorating the contest between the prophet Elijah and the priests of Baal and Asherah during the 7^th century. We enjoyed hearing the biblical text read in the shade of the trees on the cool windy hillside. Alongside the church we climbed to a viewing platform and looked north, east, and south overlooking much of the country with the round hump of Mount Tabor (Hill of  the transfiguration) in the distance, the Galillee rising to the North, and the distant hills of Samaria to the South.

We  returned to our hotel to freshen up, enjoy a dinner, and while some retired, others walked down to the promenade along the western shore of the Sea of Galilee here in Tiberius and watched a sound, water, and light show that told the history of Israel in gorgeous colours as fountains of light rose and fell to the music. Some shopped, most grabbed a scoop or two of gelato (ice cream), and have wandered back home to our hotel to prepare for a super day tomorrow around the Sea  of Galilee learning about Jesus’ life and ministry. More then!

We Are Here!

After 24 hours of travel, the group has arrived in Tiberius on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. This will be our home for the next 4 nights. We are staying in the Dona Gracia hotel, named for a Spanish noble woman who tried to begin a 16th century settlement for the Jews here in Tiberius (with the Turkish Sultan's permission). A small museum of 16th century dresses is housed in the hotel. Our arrival at the airport in Lod was uneventful, and though one couple was delayed in security we had all the luggage arrive without a hitch. We were met by our guide Yael and drive Warid. Our trek passed through the Coastal Plain along the old armistice line/border with the Territories in the Samaritan Hills and across the Jezreel Valley. We climbed up the Lower Galilee, turned East, and passed the Horns of Hattin where the knights of the Kingdom of Jerusalem were defeated by Salaadin in battle, ending Crusader domination of the land. After a nice Shabbat (sabbath) suppers we are off to catch up on our sleep and we will have a full day tomorrow as we begin our tour. stay tuned!