Over and Through the River in the Woods

Our second full day of touring began with gusto as our seasoned travelers downed the breakfast, some learning that Nescafe is the traditional Israeli coffee instead of the drip drip drip of Folgers mountain grown!

Synagogue at Capernaum

We set out north around the Lake of Kinneret (Sea of Galilee, called Kinneret in Hebrew as it is shaped like a “harp”) [The lake is 211 meters below sea level). Our time on the road was short as we arrived at the site of ancient Capernaum (Kfar Nahum = Village of Nahum) quickly, situated on the North end of the lake. Here the remains of  the little first century fishing village have been uncovered, the black basalt stone walls standing now in the sun. Rising over the ruins are the remains of the later synagogue (3^rd – 5^th cent) in white limestone, a stark contrast to the surrounding small square houses. The synagogue is built over the remains of the earlier first century building that  was the site of Jesus’ ministry at Capernaum. Just a few yards away is the small home that likely served as residence to the family of Simon Peter. Here his mother-in-law was healed by Jesus. The remains of the city are set against the sparkling blues of the sea to the south, and we enjoyed sitting in the shade to hear the story of Jesus’ center of ministry in the region.

Mount of Beatitudes

From Capernaum a short drive took us to a lovely early 20^th century Italian-inspired chapel at a site to commemorate the Beatitudes of Jesus. While the exact location of the original event is unknown, the site gives the visitor a nice understanding of the ministry to the multitudes gathered on the hillside slope to hear the revolutionary teachings of the Galilean.

Cooling of at Tel Dan

Although the lunch hour approach, we girded our belts  a little tighter, ate some trail mix or crackers, and set out for the Nature Reserve at Tel Dan at the northern edge of the Israeli border with Lebanon and Syria. Here we took a fairly long hike through the shaded woods, the rushing noise of the headwaters of the Dan River flowing southward alongside our trail. We trod over the rocks, through  the creeks and streams, into the hot forest, and had only one fall on the rocks, one fall in the water, and one bee sting. (No confessions as to who did what. What happens in Dan stays in Dan!).But I should mention we cooled our feet in a wading pool in the woods where at least 25 giggling and screaming small children from a local kibbutz were skinny dipping and enjoying the afternoon!

Our trek took us to the remains of the ancient high place of the Northern Kingdom of Israel, first established by Jeroboam as a competing  religious shrine to the Temple at Jerusalem. Here the Bema still stands where once a golden calf represented the God of Israel. A large altar for sacrifices, now gone, stood at the foot of the temple’s steps to receive the offerings of the faithful. Walking downhill we found the ancient city gate of the Israelite fortifications where multiple wooden gates once barred the enemies from entering. Too, we saw the “Place of Judgment” where the king or governor would sit upon the dais under a canopy to issue his decrees (“Dan” means “Judge.”). Passing through the plaza where new  arrivals to the city could sacrifice on a stone altar with three masseboth (standing stones representing the gods), we marched outside the walls and back to our bus.

Our lunch stop found us at a small felalfel and shwarma stand to sample near eastern “fast food,” While not fast enough for some, the choice of falafel (a pita filled with fried chick pea balls and an assortment of salads and garnished with tahini) or shwarma (small slices of grilled turkey with veggies and sauce in pita) gave many a first introduction to local quick cuisine.

Skinny Dippers' Cast Offs

Our late afternoon found us at the site of Caesarea Philippi, the site of the Apostle Peter’s confession of Jesus as the “Son of God.” Here the Roman remains of temples dedicated to the god Pan, the goddess Nemesis, and the deified Augustus Caesar stood before a cavern from which flowed the headwaters of the river now known by its Arabic name, Banias (Pan-ias). The Banias River, the Dan River, and the Hashbani (which we did not see) join together to make up the Jordan River that flows southward into the Sea of Galilee where we ended up, again, for a lovely dinner.

Tomorrow we sail on the Sea. Stay tuned.

SHOUT OUTS –

1. To all family friend and especially Milena (who requested this!): Today Grammaa and Melvin went to Peter’s home in Capernaum—this is where Jesus stayed on the Sea of Galilee.Yesterday we were in Nazareth where Jesus grew up as a child with his parents.  –Connie and Melvin
2. Hello to all our family and wish you were here. Having a blessed time, --Trisha Ditmore (who is wearing her hat!) and Donna Headstream
3. Philip Fowler, your Dad has arrived and is having a good time! – Jim
4. I went oto my favourite place in Israel today, Tel Dan! –Moma / Granny /Caroline