Jordan Valley, Dead Sea, Scrolls, Scribes, Zealots, & Wow!

Today was a long day for our travelers with special treats and sometimes heat. We said goodbye to the Dona Gracia Hotel that had been our home for 4 nights in the Galilee, loaded the luggage on the bus and struck out toward the south. Not long after passing the southern end of the Lake we stopped for baptismal ceremonies in the Jordan River. Nine members of our group chose to renew their baptismal commitments and entered the waters at Yardinit. Glenn and David baptized. When our group finished, a group of French tourists asked if Glenn would continue and baptize them! So, another 12 souls later, our joyful crew found its way back to the bus.

We came to Beth Shean, a site that features remains from both the biblical period and the later Roman world. The large Roman city was destroyed by an earthquake in 749. the ruins lay in the shadow of Tel Beth Shean, a former Canaanite and Philistine stronghold where the bodies of King Saul and Jonathan were once hung upon the walls as war trophies. We heard Tammy and Sherman sing a beautiful song from the stage of the Roman theatre, its perfect acoustics bringing their voices up to our seats high above with ringing clarity.

Cave 4, Qumran

We wound our way down the Jordan Valley, the river to our left, Mount Nebo rising  above the northern edge of the Dead Sea. Just a few miles further on we came tto the archaeological park at Qumran. Here lie the remains of a settlement of the ancient Essenes, a sect of Judaism during the days of Jesus. From their community of radical ascetic believers came many of the scrolls found hidden away in caves during the first Jewish Revolt (AD 67-70). Beginning in 1947 these scrolls came to light and now comprise the earliest copies of biblical books we possess.

Traveling south we arrived at Masada, a focus of early Israeli patriotism honouring the deaths of the Zealots who held out several years against the Roman army and committed mass suicide rather than be captured as slave. Here the remains of one of King Herod's palaces still stands as a reminder of their acts. 

After our long day, we stopped for a swim in the Dead Sea. And  what an interesting time: floating in the super-salty water with your hands and feet OUT of the water! Some enjoyed covering themselves with the mineral-rich mud, said by many to be one of earth's greatest beauty treatments.

Showering off the oily residue and minerals, we loaded on the bus and climbed UP the road to Jerusalem. Entering the city from the ancient Wilderness along the Jericho Road, we are now in our lovely hotel, the Jerusalem Park Hotel (not originally on the itinerary). A wide array of choices awaited us at dinner. Now to rest before conquering the Holy City tomorrow.

Jesus' Miracles, the Sea, Saul's Demise, and a Swim

After breakfast we walked just a few blocks from our hotel down to the jetty of Tiberius. Here we boarded our large boat for a ride across the sea of Galilee. The boat was operated by a Jewish Christian, and besides the typical corny jokes all short tour operators make, our time together was soon transformed into a mini-concert with worship and praise songs in both Hebrew and English. 

Several of our folks were able to sing-along with Daniel Carmel, the captain. Many found it a meaningful and moving experience to sing and worship on the waters where Jesus and his disciples once fished and sailed.

Our boat too soon docked at Nof Ginosar, a kibbutz on the north shore of the lake. Here, little more than a decade ago, kibbutznik brothers discovered an old boat sticking above the mud on the shores of  the lake when the water was low. Archaeologists came in and directed a small excavation, extracting what would come to be known as The Jesus Boat. The boat is the remains of a first century fishing boat that possibly worked the lake during the time of Jesus’ ministry and miracles in the area. It was fascinating to see exactly what a boat of that period would have looked like and what size it was (just about big enough for about 13 to ride in!).

From Nof Ginosar our bus carried us just a short way along the shore line to Tabgha, a small Catholic church built over the remains of original fourth and fifth century churches that commemorated Jesus’ Feeding of the Five Thousand. While the exact location is uncertain, the little chapel was built in the are where it did actually occur. Beautiful old mosaic floors of the wildlife of the Nile River in Egypt decorated the old churches and are still a part of the modern church. The graceful water birds, peacocks, and partridges joined the papyrus, trees and other wildlife to transport the viewer to a calm and peaceful setting. Under the altar is the focus of the scene, two fishes and a basket of four loaves—the fifth loaf being the Eucharist Bread on the altar that would be a part of the service.

We next drove up the Jezreel Valley to a spot between ancient Jezreel and Mount Gilboa. In a small grove of trees surrounding a spring-fed pool (The Pool of Israel) we read the story of the fall of King Saul and the death of him and his sons in battle against the Philistines. It was at the pool that the armies of Israel gathered before the battle, and her Saul faced the fall of his dynasty and the ascent of that of King David. 

Lunch found us at a quick stop for Felalfels and salads and Shwarmas again. We enjoyed our “Israeli Burgers” and cold drinks. Some washed their down with an ice cream bar (or two!). 

We visited the Springs of Harod (En Harod) where Gideon, the Israelite Judge, separated his soldiers by seeing who slurpped straight from the water in the stream and who drank by dipping their cupped hands into the waters while keeping a sharp eye out for the enemy. We enjoyed hearing the tale read as we envisioned the troops gathered around the Midianite camp and shouting,  "For the Sword of the Lord and for Gideon!"

A short drive closer to Mount Gilboa took us to Sachne Springs, a holiday reserve owned by Kibbutz Nir David and a place to enjoy a wonderful and refreshing dip in two large pools that are collected from the nearby spring. Some merely swam, while others enjoyed standing under the waterfall and washing away their tiredness.

On the way back to Tiberius some were dropped at a diamond and gemstone factory to see what treasures of the Orient they might discover. Dinner is now over. Some are walking the promenade one last time before we leave the Galilee in the morning and move south toward the Dead Sea and our next hotel. Tomorrow night from Jerusalem!

** SHOUT OUTS **
1. George and Marie Burke want to say "HI" to Marie's parents in California, Harold and Florence Lappinga. We know you enjoyed this trip in 1986. We cant wait to share what we have learned with you. Hello to the rest of our family. We love you!

Anyone Can Now Reply

Comments are now repaired so anyone can reply to our postings. sorry for the problems, followers!

Over and Through the River in the Woods

Our second full day of touring began with gusto as our seasoned travelers downed the breakfast, some learning that Nescafe is the traditional Israeli coffee instead of the drip drip drip of Folgers mountain grown!

Synagogue at Capernaum

We set out north around the Lake of Kinneret (Sea of Galilee, called Kinneret in Hebrew as it is shaped like a “harp”) [The lake is 211 meters below sea level). Our time on the road was short as we arrived at the site of ancient Capernaum (Kfar Nahum = Village of Nahum) quickly, situated on the North end of the lake. Here the remains of  the little first century fishing village have been uncovered, the black basalt stone walls standing now in the sun. Rising over the ruins are the remains of the later synagogue (3^rd – 5^th cent) in white limestone, a stark contrast to the surrounding small square houses. The synagogue is built over the remains of the earlier first century building that  was the site of Jesus’ ministry at Capernaum. Just a few yards away is the small home that likely served as residence to the family of Simon Peter. Here his mother-in-law was healed by Jesus. The remains of the city are set against the sparkling blues of the sea to the south, and we enjoyed sitting in the shade to hear the story of Jesus’ center of ministry in the region.

Mount of Beatitudes

From Capernaum a short drive took us to a lovely early 20^th century Italian-inspired chapel at a site to commemorate the Beatitudes of Jesus. While the exact location of the original event is unknown, the site gives the visitor a nice understanding of the ministry to the multitudes gathered on the hillside slope to hear the revolutionary teachings of the Galilean.

Cooling of at Tel Dan

Although the lunch hour approach, we girded our belts  a little tighter, ate some trail mix or crackers, and set out for the Nature Reserve at Tel Dan at the northern edge of the Israeli border with Lebanon and Syria. Here we took a fairly long hike through the shaded woods, the rushing noise of the headwaters of the Dan River flowing southward alongside our trail. We trod over the rocks, through  the creeks and streams, into the hot forest, and had only one fall on the rocks, one fall in the water, and one bee sting. (No confessions as to who did what. What happens in Dan stays in Dan!).But I should mention we cooled our feet in a wading pool in the woods where at least 25 giggling and screaming small children from a local kibbutz were skinny dipping and enjoying the afternoon!

Our trek took us to the remains of the ancient high place of the Northern Kingdom of Israel, first established by Jeroboam as a competing  religious shrine to the Temple at Jerusalem. Here the Bema still stands where once a golden calf represented the God of Israel. A large altar for sacrifices, now gone, stood at the foot of the temple’s steps to receive the offerings of the faithful. Walking downhill we found the ancient city gate of the Israelite fortifications where multiple wooden gates once barred the enemies from entering. Too, we saw the “Place of Judgment” where the king or governor would sit upon the dais under a canopy to issue his decrees (“Dan” means “Judge.”). Passing through the plaza where new  arrivals to the city could sacrifice on a stone altar with three masseboth (standing stones representing the gods), we marched outside the walls and back to our bus.

Our lunch stop found us at a small felalfel and shwarma stand to sample near eastern “fast food,” While not fast enough for some, the choice of falafel (a pita filled with fried chick pea balls and an assortment of salads and garnished with tahini) or shwarma (small slices of grilled turkey with veggies and sauce in pita) gave many a first introduction to local quick cuisine.

Skinny Dippers' Cast Offs

Our late afternoon found us at the site of Caesarea Philippi, the site of the Apostle Peter’s confession of Jesus as the “Son of God.” Here the Roman remains of temples dedicated to the god Pan, the goddess Nemesis, and the deified Augustus Caesar stood before a cavern from which flowed the headwaters of the river now known by its Arabic name, Banias (Pan-ias). The Banias River, the Dan River, and the Hashbani (which we did not see) join together to make up the Jordan River that flows southward into the Sea of Galilee where we ended up, again, for a lovely dinner.

Tomorrow we sail on the Sea. Stay tuned.

SHOUT OUTS –

1. To all family friend and especially Milena (who requested this!): Today Grammaa and Melvin went to Peter’s home in Capernaum—this is where Jesus stayed on the Sea of Galilee.Yesterday we were in Nazareth where Jesus grew up as a child with his parents.  –Connie and Melvin
2. Hello to all our family and wish you were here. Having a blessed time, --Trisha Ditmore (who is wearing her hat!) and Donna Headstream
3. Philip Fowler, your Dad has arrived and is having a good time! – Jim
4. I went oto my favourite place in Israel today, Tel Dan! –Moma / Granny /Caroline

Day Two - Nazareth and Mt. Carmel

After a typical Israeli breakfast featuring the likes of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, yogurt, sour cream, cereals, breads and several varieties of pastries, it was on the bus at 8 am on off on our first day of touring. We had swapped 2 days of the scheduled itinerary and began today just outside of Nazareth on the hill of the Precipice. The site commemorates the story of Jesus’ sermon in his hometown and his rejection: “a prophet is not without honour except in his own hometown.” The hill gives a great view of Jezreel Valley and its fertile fields surround the hillside towns and villages.

We came down the hill and drove up in to the modern city of Nazareth to make three  stops. We first visited the Roman Catholic Church of the Annunciation with this lovely 20^th century church built over and incorporating the ruins of the earlier Byzantine chapel first constructed in  AD 426. The church is a celebration of the life of Mary and her call by God to give birth to the Messiah.

Well, Greek Orthodox Gabriel's Church

We took a walk through the general market of the city, passing shops selling clothes and spices and all manner of home do-dads for the residents of the city. We arrived at the Greek Orthodox Church, built over the ancient water source of the city. This church claims to be the site of the Angel Gabriel’s announcement to Mary as she came to draw water in the heat of the day. We could peer over into the well and see and hear the waters running below.

Ginny Lipe Inspects Olive Tree

Next stop the recreation of the ancient city at the Nazareth Village, a project of the YMCA (yes, we also had a hot meal there and hung out with all the goys). The village recreates the city during the first century. It gave us a glimpse of life 2,000 years ago featuring a farmer threshing wheat, a shepherd and his fat-tailed sheep, a recreated wealthy family tomb (complete with rolling stone), a weaver spinning wool and weaving tapestry, a carpenter, an ancient and working  oil press, and a synagogue. Great fun to see life recreated before our eyes.

Here, too, we ate lunch, a fantastic array of salads, and the traditional schnitzel and fries, the unofficial national dish of Israel.

Mike, Come Forth!

After lunch we drove across to the foot of Mount Carmel and entered the convent commemorating the contest between the prophet Elijah and the priests of Baal and Asherah during the 7^th century. We enjoyed hearing the biblical text read in the shade of the trees on the cool windy hillside. Alongside the church we climbed to a viewing platform and looked north, east, and south overlooking much of the country with the round hump of Mount Tabor (Hill of  the transfiguration) in the distance, the Galillee rising to the North, and the distant hills of Samaria to the South.

We  returned to our hotel to freshen up, enjoy a dinner, and while some retired, others walked down to the promenade along the western shore of the Sea of Galilee here in Tiberius and watched a sound, water, and light show that told the history of Israel in gorgeous colours as fountains of light rose and fell to the music. Some shopped, most grabbed a scoop or two of gelato (ice cream), and have wandered back home to our hotel to prepare for a super day tomorrow around the Sea  of Galilee learning about Jesus’ life and ministry. More then!

We Are Here!

After 24 hours of travel, the group has arrived in Tiberius on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. This will be our home for the next 4 nights. We are staying in the Dona Gracia hotel, named for a Spanish noble woman who tried to begin a 16th century settlement for the Jews here in Tiberius (with the Turkish Sultan's permission). A small museum of 16th century dresses is housed in the hotel. Our arrival at the airport in Lod was uneventful, and though one couple was delayed in security we had all the luggage arrive without a hitch. We were met by our guide Yael and drive Warid. Our trek passed through the Coastal Plain along the old armistice line/border with the Territories in the Samaritan Hills and across the Jezreel Valley. We climbed up the Lower Galilee, turned East, and passed the Horns of Hattin where the knights of the Kingdom of Jerusalem were defeated by Salaadin in battle, ending Crusader domination of the land. After a nice Shabbat (sabbath) suppers we are off to catch up on our sleep and we will have a full day tomorrow as we begin our tour. stay tuned!

Departing Soon!

Our June 7th departure date is fast approaching. Let your friends and family know about this Blog address so they can follow you and the group daily. 


Each day I'll post highlights from our travels: sites we've visited, interesting discoveries, pictures of our folks--candid and posed! 


We'll also try to let travelers post a one-line "Shout Out" to folks back home from time to time! 


So bookmark the address and check back each Stateside morning to see if we've posted news from our intrepid band! 

We'll see you from the Holy Land!